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the official site what I think, beyond the cost of the plant better

Gasfree

Gasfree means the future. The LPG gas works correctly in a camper. It was the choice for decades and still the additional fuel dominant for recreational vehicles.

Gasfree is not against GAS but simply provides a new sense of life aboard your recreational vehicle. Why buy a camper? For the space inside and the services it offers.

Gasfree perfettta is the solution! Thanks to clever fuel already on board we can offer you:

• more space inside
• Less weight
• More autonomy fuel
• More electric range
• perfect temperature on board

cool is that?

How is the gasfree?

Heating			Webasto DualTop
Hot Water			Webasto DualTop
Cooking			Webasto Diesel Cooker X100
Energy			EFOY methanol fuel cell
Fridge			Fridge compressor (thanks to the energy of the fuel cell)
Advantages:
More interior space:			Webasto DualTop is installed outside the vehicle. You do not need more gas cylinders.
Less weight:			The complete solution provides a weight advantage of> 15kg
More autonomy Fuel			A tank of 70 l diesel offers 10 days of autonomy. The supply is not a problem!
More autonomy Current:			5 l of methanol on board offers the equivalent of 5-6 standard batteries.
perfect temperature on board:			DualTop The Webasto offers excellent performance in both heating and hot water

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DUAL TOP (WHICH IS MORE LIKE ME ')

Use Webasto Dual Top means using a single source of fuel. Hot water and a pleasant temperature on board are ensured without sacrificing space because the entire unit is attached to the frame under the vehicle. Simple solutions are always the most intelligent!

Take your pick between the two versions. The Webasto Dual Top RHA-100 uses only diesel fuel tank of the vehicle. the Webasto Dual Top RHA-101 RHA-102 and are provided with an electrical resistance for a connection to 230 V to heat the cabin and water heaters. The difference between the two models is the different power level to meet individual needs. The new controller allows for easy activation of various functions such as
cab heating and domestic hot water and antifreeze or the option Self draining. The models with the electric heater are provided with a digital programmable control panel to ensure easy navigation and a constant comfort.

• up to 8 kW of heating power
• Boiler from 11 l water heated to 70 ° C
• Ppossibilità to download the appliance with a simple gesture
• antifreeze protection
• more space due to mounting external
• Simple temperature control
• Heating safely while driving

Antifreeze - the security features

The boiler will automatically download to freezing temperatures even if the heater is turned off. Alternatively you can select the antifreeze directly from the control. If this feature is engaged, the vehicle may be left even if it is cold and the contents of the boiler remains above the freezing temperature.

Self draining - simple

you like to download the boiler? You should not put more under the vehicle! Just turn the knob on the control panel from the comfort inside the camper. It only takes 5 seconds on Self draining position and the boiler is emptied

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HEATER AIR

How the air heater

When you turn on the heater metering pump to circulate the oil from the tank of the camper. The fuel is lit by a candle. If combustion does not happen right away, repeat the procedure automatically. In the combustion chamber the flame heats the heat exchanger. The heater draws fresh air from outside the vehicle for combustion and air combustion is removed from the outside. During heating, built-in fan draws air from heat that is distributed in the heater. During this step, the air is heated and then is distributed through the nozzle.

The tubing for the distribution of hot air carries the heat inside the camper. Due to the separation of the fuel cycle from the heating cycle there is no deterioration of the heated air. A sensor constantly measures the temperature inside and suitable The heating level automatically controlling the amount of air flowing through the heater. When you turn off the heater, the combustion process stops in a controlled manner. For this reason, the heater is put into a re-run to cool, then it is ready to restart.

The following image shows you what happens inside the heater.

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the inverter

What is an inverter and what is it?
The inverter is an electronic device that converts the current from a battery (which is of type 12V continuous or 24V) to 230 volts alternating current, similar to that found in homes.
With the inverter is therefore possible to feed all the small appliances commonly used in homes, such as battery charger MOBILE and LAPTOPS, electric shavers, televisions and set-top boxes, KITCHEN TOOLS, HAIR DRYER.

Can I use any type of food?
There are users who, for various reasons are not suitable to be powered with an inverter and are mainly of two types:
1.Impianti Hi-Fi use in such inverter can introduce a hum, not easily removed even with filters,
2.Lampade to glow in the cold every time the filament acts as an overload, which can damage the inverter. Inverter is present in many soft-start function that reduces this problem
All other users can be fired without special precautions.

As an inverter consume?
E 'is widely accepted that the inverter, a device for high power consumption, they were in error because the consumption depends solely and exclusively by the users connected to it at 220V, so for example the 'use of television Color 12V or 220V by inverter causes both ways comparable consumption and increased consumption due to the transformation from 12 to 220 normally does not reach 10%. Obviously if you use very powerful utilities consumption is high, but the "guilt" is not the inverter but the user. As an example, consider a 500W hair dryer, which is a huge consumer, well, if used for 5 minutes results in a consumption of 3.5 Ah, the battery is entirely tolerable service that starting any vehicle.
How is the choice of a power inverter?
In choosing the power of an inverter should be noted that almost all utilities to be connected at power on, have an increase in consumption which is commonly referred to as "consumption of inspiration and the drive you choose must be able to supply this power, in Otherwise, the inverter will stop without food users. Usually an inverter 100W (100W as continuous power supplies, but also able to supply 200W for short periods in order to manage any inrush currents).
It 'a good idea then click inverter powerful, slightly oversized in relation to users (+ 20% oversizing factor), so not to force the drive to work 100% of its possibilities. In this way, the inverter's less hot, it is more efficient and lasts longer. On the other hand, it is unnecessary to oversize a long drive when the consumption of the same during both the business and stand-by would be unnecessarily high, with a big waste of valuable energy.
As a general rule you can follow these simple directions:
150W SMALL BATTERY CHARGER, razor, etc. PHONE.
300W for small TV 5 "- 10" LAPTOPS
600W MEDIUM 14 "LARGE AND TELEVISION 20" and VCR, COMPUTER
1,000-2000W HAIRDRYER , food processors, refrigerators, etc..

What does "sine wave"?
The sine wave is typical of 220V supplied by ENEL and capable of powering all types of users connected to it, and when this wave to be reconstructed from the DC power electronic switches that are used for opening and closing thousands of times per second reconstruct a waveform very similar but not identical, to that ENEL, hence the definition of "modified wave." There are a sine-wave inverters, however, have a power consumption and a much higher cost and are usually used only for professional installations.

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electric range ......

Autonomy, the phrase that has always been 'in vocabulary of the campers,
But how much autonomy I have if I use the Webasto?
But if I get on the satellite consumption?
But if I put three batteries in parallel I have more power?
But to run the air conditioner I have to install those panels?
Stop! Let's stop here 'and do a bit' of clarity on some points.
habits and ideas of the camper are like fingerprints of the hand, all, different from 'the other, I certainly do not have to be able to get them to agree, but maybe some' clarity on the choice of accessories not bad.
Speaking of battery life I am referring to the more 'important cioe'l'elettricita' within the cell.
It is usually supported by a rechargeable battery commonly called services, with the engine running gets charged through the alternator.
but truly believe that the service battery to charge and always right?
Let me explain, the values \u200b\u200bof a battery are three ': VOLT, and that' the tension with which the battery is born, AMP, and that 'the capacity for autonomy, and the inspiration you need for maximum effort in a very short such periods. starts engine and large absorption. Often this when you look at the tension after a long trip, note that the value and 'approximate to 12 / 13 volt, but even so, after a few hours the light is weakened, the TV goes out, the Webasto is locking this because if the battery and 'on overload? No battery is not 'on overload but only has a good voltage and amperage is not good.
This value, as already mentioned is the capacity for autonomy that receives a battery, battery, and 'as a container, imagine having to use 100 gallons of water in a container with a revert to' internal 30 pounds of sand, the result will be that of water it will use only 70 liters.
Stupid as it? But now we move this comparison in a battery. If in the 'shell of a 100-ampere battery has built a sulfation by 50%, what will remain will be to eat only the remaining 50% of these counts are nominal. because in reality 'is worse, as there are users who do not just value drops below a certain voltage, they leave you without mercy'.
What is Sulfation?
Sintezizzo explanation to a minimum, this process is created inside the coil and 'insufficient due to the continuous charge and its mismanagement, which in time generates a kick in the plates to' internal thus preventing the current to take place to recharge.
Why sulfation?
I am noticing more and more frequently on this issue means a new generation, and this not because they are born bad, but well equipped with many accessories that require a lot of power we see only a few examples:
electronic injection
-Electric windows, central door locking

-Ventilation and air conditioning in the cabin
Four-H7 halogen lamps, from 55watt, two always on
Super-cooling fan motor,
-Stereo
maybe from 150-liter refrigerator that runs on the road to 12 volts
So the traditional charging system will never be able to satisfy the maximum demands of the battery service, since they already committed to supply power to other accessories. Hence because the batteries never have enough power and go sulfation in a short time.

then? Are you still convinced that your batteries to recharge anytime, right?
Solution
There are very effective products on the market, are some houses that produce them, these accessories are installed in 'facility charging their duties and 'to directly manage the battery charge services with a much higher voltage, 14.5 volts.
This high voltage makes it faster and more completely recharge the batteries, thus avoiding the sulphation due to the partial charges of the traditional system.
The system only works on the road, and is fully automatic, and 'has a very refined electronic logic that manages the entire system, and power curves according to the needs of the battery.
Why mount it?
longer battery life over time
battery fully charged even after journeys average
Faster charging with the engine idling.
More efficient are current for the autonomy of the dual battery, but even here we must be careful installation.
I've seen systems with two or three batteries mounted in parallel, but if the traditional hard to charge a battery, designed with two or even three batteries in parallel, the effect would seem valid at first, but soon after disaster time.
The installation must be done with the installation of a separator of charge, ie a system that manages the current mode alternative and electronic, always giving a higher voltage for each battery (as explained above), and does not create dialogue between the two sources, although of the same voltage and amperage are never the same.
I hope that these little notions may serve to make best use of your camper!
Soon we will talk about other types of accessories, but for now enjoy your weekend. Good
current at all.

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something many overlook .....

EYE TO CRACKING!
Often people in the workshop really means disaster in the background camper for various reasons, infiltration, water losses neglected, leaking drains, straps that allow drawing water from outside.
But a problem that many underestimate is the breaking of the shower that always stands out with ease.
We think that the shower tray and inevitably placed on the floor and then the wood, which is not waterproof, as is believed, but ready to absorb all the water that passes nearby.
If a small crack in the shower begins to penetrate the water, this stops at floor level, and where the transition is beginning to penetrate. This one does not notice because there are visible and immediate losses just because the shower little use, so water has time to do its job, all the wood that is rotting the floor. The metropolitan stories of what the floor sinks are not really jokes but also views of the bridge from me in the shop, literally smashed floors. that supply water with the weight, steps that are torn from its mounting. You have to think that a repair of this kind has often staggering costs because it requires the complete removal of the rotten part, the partial renovation of the floor, the new timber, new joints, and the new coating.
I think at this point it is worth inspecting often the shower to make sure no cracks
there are several around. Usually the most critical water discharges are highly visible (see Fig.), but much less visible are the small cracks in the corners where the material is much thinner. Another problem is the sealing of the perimeter, the passage of water from there is bound to the sub. But another problem that we often find is under the sink that lets the drain maybe crack 'following the water dripping on the exhaust pipe runs directly under the shower or through the floor.
There are some products on the market to be used to repair the crack, these are very valid, but only if the problem, ie the crack is not in a moving dot as often happens.
Usually the most critical point and the point where you beat the first step of entry, there are many shower trays which are very empty in the background, this means that with time you will inevitably form the collapse of the preform.
When replacing a shower would be useful to consider very carefully the points of support, as the same shall be placed on a sounder basis (not too) that will leave the opportunity to flex the foot to plasticanel empty. Tips for using



not step-ever shower with shoes

-Do walk on the flat during the winter when the RV and still long, switch on the heating make it slightly more flexible

-thick rubber mats are not bad but as long as every time you bathe and do not let them be drained wet